Kagoshima

Kagoshima 

Kagoshima is the south most major city in Japan. Being on the edge, it’s a natural catalyst for Japan’s change.

Being on geographical edge, it is also on geological edge. The region is full of volcanoes and hot springs, as is often the case along tectonic borders. This gives a sense of constant change, even eruptive changes, contrasting what we are led to believe the everlasting eternity of the current system. 

The expansion, and the foreign expansion of the Kagoshima clan, or more precisely, the Satsuma clan, started early. In 1609, they conquered Ryukyu (琉球）. For many years, they were the only clan allowed to engage in international trade, gaining a great amount of wealth and outside experience. Interestingly, the conquest of Ryukyu was a hidden conquest, so the lucrative trade relation between China and Ryukyu could be maintained. One would wonder how much China’s wealth have gone to unknown parties from ancient times to today, due to arrogance and ignorance of the  Chinese government.

The Kagoshima clan was the most important force in Meiji Restoration. Among the three Greats of Meiji Restoration, two were from Kagoshima. They were Saigo Takamori and ?kubo Toshimichi, both born from Kajiya-cho, a tiny low class samurai neighborhood. Many key players in the early stage of Japan’s modernization drive were born in this tiny neighborhood, including Oyama and Togo, the greatest war heroes of Japan. In Russo Japanese war of 1905, Japan defeated Russia. This was the first time nonwhite defeated white in a major war in modern history. Togo and Oyama became folk heroes in the nonwhite world. Many Turkish boys born at that time were named Togo. Japanese people made the greatest contribution, and ultimate sacrifice, for making the world a more equal place. During WWII, whole Kagoshima was leveled by US bombing. Today, Kagoshima has almost no ancient buildings,  only new buildings with ancient styles.

History is always written by the winners. Today, there is little mention of these great people who made the world a better place for the majority, though not for the ruling minority. But nostalgia runs deep among the locals. In particular, Saigo Takamori, who died as a failed rebel, has a strong emotional connection to many people.

Yesterday, we went to Ibusuki, a southern town at the Kagoshima area. Public transport is sporadic. We hired a tour taxi. The driver, a very old man, was very nice. When I mentioned Saigo Takamori to him, he became very friendly. He drove us to Eel Pond, which is not on the tour schedule. He said that Saigo once vacationed there with 13 dogs. As he drove along, he pointed to us the sculptures of the first, second, third, … dogs. Apparently, Saigo is very sacred to the locals, and to the driver. Then he showed us the house Saigo once stayed. The whole village is a giant steam field. Steam is everywhere. Locals use hot steam to cook. There is even a public steam kitchen for tourists to cook their food. The experience is truly amazing.