Bordeaux, La Belle Endormie of FRA(法国波尔多·睡美人之城)
2024-06-17 National Take Your Cat to Work Day

【More Strong Than Time (Plus fort que le temps)】
Victor Hugo (1802-1885)
Since I have set my lips to your full cup, my sweet,
Since I my pallid face between your hands have laid,
Since I have known your soul, and all the bloom of it,
And all the perfume rare, now buried in the shade;
Since it was given to me to hear on happy while,
The words wherein your heart spoke all its mysteries,
Since I have seen you weep, and since I have seen you smile,
Your lips upon my lips, and your eyes upon my eyes;
Since I have known above my forehead glance and gleam,
A ray, a single ray, of your star, veiled always,
Since I have felt the fall, upon my lifetime's stream,
Of one rose petal plucked from the roses of your days;
I now am bold to say to the swift changing hours,
Pass, pass upon your way, for I grow never old,
Fleet to the dark abysm with all your fading flowers,
One rose that none may pluck, within my heart I hold.
Your flying wings may smite, but they can never spill
The cup fulfilled of love, from which my lips are wet;
My heart has far more fire than you can frost to chill,
My soul more love than you can make my soul forget.
—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——
【《比时间更强大》】
(法国)维克多·雨果“胜利者·哲人”(1802生—1885卒)
【红霞译】
既然我早就啜上你那盈满的酒杯,亲爱的,
既然我早就把苍白的脸庞埋进你的双手,
既然我早就清楚你的灵魂及其所有的繁盛,
现都湮没无音的稀世芳香;
既然在幸福时刻让我倾听,
你心底吐露的所有秘密,
既然我早就看到你哭泣,既然我早就看到你微笑,
你的嘴唇贴着我的嘴唇,而你的眼睛望着我的眼睛;
既然我早就清楚我头顶上的光亮,
是你那一缕、唯一一缕、永远隐秘的星辉,
既然我早就觉出会坠入我的生命之流,
从你生命的玫瑰中摘下一片花瓣;
我现在大胆地对瞬息万变的时间说,
去吧,走你的路,因为我从不变老,
带着你所有凋谢的花朵逃往黑暗的深渊,
一朵没人能摘的玫瑰珍藏在我的心底。
你翱翔的翅膀可能被击碎,但永远不会打翻
充满爱意、让我嘴唇湿润的酒杯;
我心底的烈焰远非你能用冰霜冷却,
我灵魂深处的爱意你无法让我忘怀。
【注】陈酿的红酒让波尔多“水边”成为法国的睡美人,那深红色的液体,像是这座城市沉睡了数百年的梦境。高卢“雄鸡”眼中,它是最美的都市——蜿蜒的加龙“多石”河穿城而过,18世纪的石砌建筑在阳光下泛着蜜色的光泽,每一扇窗户都仿佛在诉说着优雅与闲适。
不过,这座以美酒闻名的城市,也曾是国家危难时刻的临时心脏。第一次世界大战期间,当巴黎面临德军威胁时,法国政府曾迁至波尔多。当德国入侵占领法国北部并迫使英国人撤出欧洲大陆时,法国代表团在1918年《康边“火烧之地”停战协定》1签署地签署了德国强加的停战条约,标志着法国在二战中投降。而在1940年6月,二战中巴黎沦陷后,波尔多再次成为法国政府的临时驻地,见证了那段屈辱与挣扎的历史。
1940年6月22日,在巴黎以北的康边森林——那个22年前德国签署一战投降书的同一节火车车厢里,法国代表团签署了德国强加的停战条约。这一刻,标志着法国在二战中正式投降:北部被德军占领,南部则由傀儡政权维希“温暖之地”法国(Régime de Vichy)统治。波尔多这座临时的首都,也随之落入德国的军事控制之下。
直到1944年,盟军采取了两场决定性的登陆行动:6月的诺曼底“北欧人”“霸王行动”2和8月的普罗旺斯“古罗马省”龙骑兵登陆3,法国领土才逐步获得解放,德国的军事统治(1940年6月—1944年12月)终于走向终结。
然而,于波尔多而言,战争的结束差点意味着毁灭的开始。1944年8月,就在盟军逼近之际,纳粹头目希特勒“小农户”下令炸毁波尔多的月亮港——这个战时最重要的港口之一,储存着足以摧毁整个港区的弹药,执行命令的德国海军军官亨利·萨尔米德“领主·安全”(Henri Salmide)却在最后一刻违抗了命令。他冒着被处决的风险,亲手引爆了弹药库,但不是为了摧毁港口,而是为了阻止更大的破坏。他的行动不仅保住了月亮港,也拯救了大约3,500名法国人的性命。
战后,萨尔米德被法国人视为英雄。但对他来说,这只是一个普通人的选择——在战争最黑暗的时刻,选择了光明。波尔多或许会忘记许多事情,但不会忘记这位德国军官的名字。
1.《康边停战协定》:Armistice de Compiègne
2.霸王行动: Operation Overlord
3.龙骑兵行动:Operation Dragon
Today in History(历史上的今天):
2024: Bordeaux, Camino Francés in France(法国波尔多·朝圣之路)
2024: Bordeaux, the Wine Capital of FRA(法国波尔多·葡萄酒首府)
2024: Chateau Lanessan & Wineries, FRA(法国拉内桑酒庄及葡萄酒厂)
2024: Fort Médoc, Bolt of the Estuary FRA(法国梅多克堡·河口之箭))
2023: Juneteenth Weekend Dined @ Nectar, PA(宾州丹露轩六月节晚餐)
2022: Home Remediation—Stucco Replacement(灰泥外墙更新修复工程)
2015: Rhodes—Acropolis of Lindos, Greece(希腊罗得岛·美都卫城)
2015: Rhodes—Grand Master of the Knights, GRC(希腊罗得岛·大教长宫)
2015: Rhodes—Island of the Knights, Greece(希腊罗得岛·骑士之岛)
2012: 摘草莓(Shady Brook Farm)
Opera House & Ballet National de Bordeaux Built Entirely of Wood & Inaugurated in 1780
(1780年落成的波尔多大剧院·国家歌剧院和芭蕾舞团所在地,完全由木材建造)
Grand Theatre of Bordeaux in a Neoclassical Fa?ade @ Place de la Comédie
(喜剧广场·新古典主义外观的波尔多大剧院 06-17-2024)
Interior of Opera Natl Bordeaux (波尔多国家歌剧院内景)
Auditorium of Opera Natl Bordeaux
(波尔多国家歌剧院·坐席)
Lobby of Opera Natl Bordeaux (波尔多国家歌剧院·大厅)
Atrium Ceiling, Grand Theatre of Bordeaux
(波尔多大剧院·门厅天花板)

Portico w/ 12 Corinthian Style Colossal Columns, Grand Theatre of Bordeaux
(波尔多大剧院·带12根科林斯“装饰”风格巨柱的门廊)
Grand Staircase Served as a Model for the Grand Staircase of the Opéra Garnier in Paris, Grand Theatre of Bordeaux
(波尔多大剧院·大楼梯是巴黎卡尼尔“守卫”歌剧院大楼梯的模型 06-17-2024)

One Michelin-Starred Le Quatrième Mur of an Invisible Theater Separating the Actors from the Audience inside Grand Theatre of Bordeaux
(波尔多大剧院内第四堵墙餐厅·原本剧院的隐形部分将演员与观众分开)
A Gloriously Simple, Understated Score Focusing on 1st-Rate Ingredients, High-Flying Technique, a Side Dish, & a Jus in One-Michelin-Starred Le Quatrième Mur
(米其林“神赐”一星的第四面墙餐厅·以其简单朴素专注于一流的食材、高超的烹饪技术、独特的配菜肉汁而著称 06-17-2024)
21-m/69-ft Rostral Columns Facing the Garonne Erected in 1829 Symbolizing Commerce & Standing for Navigation @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场·建于1829年、面向加龙“多石”河21米/69英尺高的船头柱,象征着商业与航海 06-17-2024)
54-m/177-ft-Tall Monument to the Girondins in Memory of the Girondists, Fallen Victims of the Reign of Terror During the French Revolution @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场·54米/177英尺高的吉伦特“圆润”人纪念碑,缅怀法国大革命恐怖统治时期的吉伦特派受害者)

Liberty Statue @ the Top of the Column of the Girondins, Monument to the Girondins @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场吉伦特人纪念碑·吉伦特派圆柱顶端的自由女神像)
A Large Pedestal Framed w/ 2 Basins Decorated w/ Bronze Horses & Troops, Surmounted by a Large Column w/ a Statue Representing the Spirit of Liberty, & Triumph of the Concorde in Roman Divinity, the Monument to the Girondins @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场吉伦特人纪念碑·大型基座带2个水池,池上饰有青铜马匹和军队,顶部有一根大柱子,柱子刻有代表自由精神的雕像,还有罗马神祗象征协和号的胜利)
City of Bordeaux Sitting on the Prow of a Ship w/ a Cornucopia-Base the River Dordogne @ L & the Garonne @ R, Monument to the Girondins @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场吉伦特人纪念碑·船头为波尔多城,船基的左岸为多尔多涅“溪流”河而右岸为加龙“多石”河)
A Rooster (Allegory of France) towards the River Surrounded by 2 People Symbolizing History & Eloquence, Monument to the Girondins @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场吉伦特人纪念碑·法国寓言中的一只公鸡走向河流,周围的两人象征着历史和雄辩)
Myriad Sculptures & a Riot of Horses, Monument to the Girondins @ Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场吉伦特人纪念碑·无数雕塑和骏马)
The Impressive Bronze Fountains Depicting the Triumphs of the Republic & the Concorde Anchoring the Place des Quinconces
(梅花广场·令人印象深刻的青铜喷泉,描绘了共和国和协和号的胜利)
Flower Basket @ Jardin Public
(公共花园·花篮 06-17-2024)
Fountain @ Place du Champ de Mars, the Public Park or Jardin Public
(公共花园·战神广场喷泉)
Statue of Rosa Bonheur as a Painter of Animals in the Jardin Public
(公共花园里动物画家《罗莎·邦赫“玫瑰·快乐”》雕像)
Botanic Garden, Jardin Public (公共花园·植物园)

Plaque of Administrative Pavilion Museum, Jardin Public
(公共花园·行政阁博物馆牌匾)
Southern Magnolia of Jardin Public
(公共花园·南方木兰花)
Maritime Stock Exchange Hotel (海事交易所大厦)

Statue Marthe Adéla?de Modeste Testa, an Ethiopian Woman Enslaved, Purchased by Bordeaux Merchants & Subsequently Freed after Living on 3 Continents
(雕像《尊贵夫人谦虚·头脑》——被奴役、波尔多商人贩卖来的埃塞俄比亚妇女,在三大洲生活后获释)

Fountain @ Stock Exchange Square for Minerve Protecting the Arts & Mercury Favoring the Commerce of the City
(证券交易所广场·代表艺术的《智慧》喷泉和象征城市的《水星“众神信使”》)

Statue of Gloria Victis or Glory to the Vanquished
(雕像《荣耀归于失败者》)
Statue of Jacques Chaban Delmas, the Prime Minister in the Pompidou Government on the Pey-Berland Square opposite the Rohan Palace
(高宫即市政厅对面大主教广场上蓬皮杜政府任总理的《雅克·沙邦—德尔马“后继者·牧羊人·乡下人”》雕像)

Lamp on City Hall (市政厅·路灯)

Historic Plaque of Rue de L'Hotel-de-Ville
(市政厅街历史牌匾)
Sculpture of Francisco Goya on Cervantes Institute Spanish Cultural Ctr, Bulls, Milkmaids, & a Lasting Presence in Bordeaux
(位于塞万提斯“雄鹿”学院西班牙文化中心的雕塑《弗朗西斯科·戈雅“自由人·机敏”》·其代表作品《公牛、挤奶女工与波尔多的永恒印记》)

Statue of Francisco de Goya, the Spanish Painter @ Place du Chapelet
(玫瑰广场——西班牙画家雕塑《弗朗西斯科·戈雅》)
Le Pressoir d'Argent, the 2-Michelin-starred Restaurant's Name & Signage Inspired by the Dining Room's Centerpiece w/ a Rare Christofle Solid Silver Lobster Press
(米其林二星级餐厅“银榨汁器”·名称和标牌灵感源自餐厅的中心装饰品和罕见的法式轻奢纯银龙虾榨汁器)

Sanna @ Place de la Comédie, the Jaume Plensa's Stunning Sculpture of Larger-Than-Life
(喜剧广场雕塑《桑娜“真实”》·西班牙雕塑家叹为观止的传奇作品)
Statue du Marquis de Tourny (雕像《图尔尼“比武”侯爵》)

Statue of a Joan of Arc Natl Heroine
(法国女英雄《圣女贞德》雕像)

Wallace Fountain near the Museum of Contemporary Art
(当代艺术博物馆附近的华莱士“外来人”喷泉)
View of the Cité du Vin, a Futuristic Bldg Famous for Its Fine Wines
(葡萄酒城·以其优质葡萄酒而闻名的未来主义建筑)
Dinner Dishes @ Grand Dining of Oceania Marina
(“大洋·滨海”号游轮主餐厅——晚餐)
Crosslinks(相关博文):
