Sé de Braga, the Oldest in Portugal(葡萄牙最古老的布拉加大教堂)

2024-06-14 National Cucumber Day

【Odes, Book I - 02 (1924)】

Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935)

        Of the gardens of Adonis, Lydia, I love

        Most of all those fugitive roses

        That on the day they are born,

        That very day, must also die.

        Eternal, for them, the light of day:

        They're born when the sun is already high

        And die before Apollo's course

        Across the visible sky is run.

        We too, of our lives, must make one day:

        We never know, my Lydia, nor want

        To know of nights before or after

        The little while that we may last.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《一颂之二》(1924)】

(葡萄牙)费尔南多·佩索阿“旅行者·角色”

(1888生—1935卒)

【红霞译】

            阿童尼“植物神”花园里，美人，我喜欢

            大都在出世之日

            转瞬即逝的玫瑰，

            又在那天，零落成泥。

            永恒于它们不过是白昼之光：

            生在艳阳高照

            而死在太阳神完成

            穿越看得见天空之前。

            把人生当作一天吧：

            亲爱的美人，我们无知

            无觉黑夜前后

            所度过的瞬间。

【注】布拉加“马裤”大教堂，这座葡萄牙最古老的圣殿，始建于11世纪。彼时，葡萄牙尚未成为独立王国，这片土地仍在摩尔“阿拉伯”人与基督教势力的拉锯中喘息。而这座教堂，便是在这样的时代背景下拔地而起，成为信仰的堡垒，也是权力的象征。

走近大教堂，首先映入眼帘的是那融合了多种风格的立面。古罗马式的厚重与简朴，体现在那坚实的石墙和半圆形的拱门上；哥特式的轻盈与向上，则藏在那高耸的尖顶和肋状拱顶里。而摩尔人的影响，则隐约可见于某些几何图案的装饰中，那是几个世纪伊斯兰统治留下的文化印记。最特别的是曼努埃尔“上帝与我们同在”式风格——这种葡萄牙独有的晚期哥特式建筑语言，以繁复的雕刻、绳索般的石雕和象征航海发现的元素，将教堂的某些部分装点得如同海上的珊瑚。

走进教堂内部，光线从彩绘玻璃窗倾泻而下，在石柱上投下斑驳的光影。主祭坛金碧辉煌，巴洛克式的装饰令人目眩。回廊幽深静谧，每一根柱头都雕刻着圣经故事或奇珍异兽。这里不仅是布拉加总教区的所在地，也是葡萄牙和西班牙大主教的驻地——它的宗教影响力，早已跨越了国界。

站在大教堂前，我试图想象11世纪的人们，是如何一石一石地将这座圣殿垒起。没有起重机，没有钢筋水泥，只有信仰和双手。他们或许不曾想到，一千年后，依然有人站在这同一片土地上，仰望同一座尖塔，感叹同一份虔诚。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Porto, the 2nd Largest of Portugal(葡萄牙波尔图·第二大城市)

2024: Braga, the Religious Ctr of Portugal(葡萄牙宗教中心·布拉加)

2024: Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙布拉加·山上好耶稣)

2024: Guimaraes, the Birthplace of Portugal(葡萄牙诞生地·吉马良斯城)

2015: Archaeological Site of Pompeii, Italy(意大利庞贝古城)

2015: Lemons in Capri, Italy(意大利卡普里“山羊”岛的柠檬)

2012: Descriptive─Fables(想象文─童话故事)

The Main Fa?ade Sculpted in Black Rock w/ 3 Gothic Arches Constructed @ the End of the 15^th Century, & the Towers/Upper Storeys in Early Baroque Built in the 17^th Century

(黑岩雕刻的正面观·带有15世纪末的哥特式三拱门，早期巴洛克式塔楼及顶层建于17世纪 06-14-2024)

The Seat of the Archbishop of Braga and Primate of Portugal & the Hispanias

(大主教之城布拉加·葡萄牙和西班牙大主教所在地)

Main Nave Stood out w/an Altar, the Vault, & a Huge Stained Glass Window

(主堂以祭坛、拱顶和巨大的彩色玻璃窗而闻名)

Manuelino Main Chapel w/ Ornate Stone Carved Altar

(体现葡萄牙晚期哥特式建筑风格的主教堂·配以华丽的石雕祭坛，可追溯到11世纪)

Chancel, the Oldest Cathedral in Portugal back to the 11^th Century in Romanesque w/ Gothic Baroque

(圣坛·葡萄牙最古老的大教堂，采用罗马式、哥特式和巴洛克式风格)

Fresco Painting on the Wooden Ceiling (木制天花板上的壁画)

Wooden Ceiling (木制天花板)

Choir Stalls & High Altar (唱诗班席与高祭坛)

Square Dome (方形穹顶)

Pulpit (讲道坛)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of Our Lady of Piety

(虔诚圣母礼拜堂·祭坛画)

Close-up of Altarpiece @ Chapel of Our Lady of Piety

(虔诚圣母礼拜堂·祭坛画近景)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of the Madonna and Infant Jesus

(圣母和圣婴耶稣礼拜堂·祭坛画)

Altarpiece @ Sanctuary of Our Lady of Sameiro

(圣母之地圣母圣殿·祭坛画)

Altarpiece of the Black Beard God

(黑胡子神祭坛画)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of S. Pedro de Rates)

(布拉加第一任大主教光源的磐石圣徒礼拜堂·祭坛画)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of Our Lady of the Rosary

(玫瑰圣母礼拜堂·祭坛画)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament

(圣体礼拜堂·祭坛画)

Medieval Architectural Arches (中世纪建筑拱门)

Altarpiece @ Chapel of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Formerly of the Holy Trinity

(耶稣圣心礼拜堂·前圣三一礼拜堂祭坛画)

Golden Altarpiece @ Transept Side of the Gospel

(福音侧堂·金色祭坛画)

Altarpiece Depicting the Blessed Virgin & St. John the Baptist along w/ St. Michael Delivering Souls out of Purgatory

(祭坛画描绘了圣母和施洗者神慈圣徒以及圣天使长将灵魂从炼狱中拯救出来)

Crucified Jesus @ Transept Side of the Gospel

(福音侧堂·被钉在十字架上的耶稣)

Enormous Columns & Pillars (巨大的排柱和立柱)

Ceilings Decorated w/ Bright Colors, Columns Surrounded by Gilded Carvings & Organs Blended w/ the Decoration of the High Choir through 2 Balconies

(色彩鲜艳的天花板，排柱周围环绕着镀金雕刻，借助两个阳台将管风琴与高唱诗台的装饰融为一体)

Organ & Ceiling of the High Choir w/ a Depiction of the Marriage of the Virgin Mary & St Joseph in the Middle

(高唱诗班席的管风琴和中间天花板描绘了耶稣父母举行婚礼)

Choir Beautifully Decorated w/ a Painted Ceiling & Sculptured Gilt Wood Choir Stalls Executed around 1737

(装饰精美的唱诗班·建于1737年左右，拥有彩绘天花板和金雕镀金木质唱诗班座席)

2 Gilt Wood Organs Heavily Decorated w/ Baroque & Fantastic Motifs

(两台镀金木制风琴·雕饰精美，带有巴洛克风格和梦幻般图案)

Holy Water Sink (圣水槽)

The Figure of Saint Sebastiao (圣塞巴斯蒂昂“可敬”雕像)

The Figure of Saint Jo?o (圣若昂“神慈”雕像)

Tomb of Infante Dom Afonso, Son of King D. Jo?o I & Queen Filipa de Lencastre w/ Canopy Made of Wood Covered w/ Pieces of Golden & Silver Copper

(若昂国王一世和王后菲利帕·伦卡斯特“爱马仕·河堡”的尊贵王子多姆·阿方索“领主·尊贵”之墓——木制华盖，镶饰金银铜片)

Tomb of D. Eurico Dias Nogueira, a Portuguese Prelate of Catholic Church

(葡萄牙天主教会高级主教之墓)

Monument to the Archbishops (大主教纪念碑)

View of the South Side & the Portal in the Lateral Fa?ade in Original Romanesque

(教堂的南侧景观和原始的古罗马式侧门 06-14-2024)

Bell Towers (钟楼)

Chapel of Our Lady of Glory (荣耀圣母礼拜堂)

Cloister of Saint Amaro, the 1^st Portuguese Cathedral Erected Several Decades before the Founding of the Country as Part of the Kingdom of León

(圣阿马罗“苦涩”修道院·葡萄牙第一座大教堂，早于建国几十年前，属于狮子王国的一部分)

Romanesque Apse w/ a Painting Representing Our Lady of Loreto on the Vault

(古罗马式后殿·拱顶上描绘月桂树圣母)

Pelourinho & Porta (颈手枷和大门)

Chapel of S?o Geraldo (圣杰拉尔多“持矛者”礼拜堂)

St Ovidius the 3^rd Bishop of Braga & a Portuguese Saint

(圣奥维迪乌斯“牧羊人”·布拉加第三任主教和葡萄牙守护神)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Portugal(出游葡萄牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)