Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, PRT(葡萄牙布拉加·山上好耶稣)

2024-06-14 National Bourbon Day

【Odes】

Ricardo Reis, Heteronym of Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935)

        Don't try to build in the space you suppose

        Is the future, Lydia, and don't promise yourself

        Tomorrow. Quit hoping and be who you are

        Today. You alone are your life.

        Don't plot your destiny, for you are not the future.

        Between the cup you empty and the same cup

        Refilled, who knows whether your fortune

        Won't interpose the abyss?

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《颂歌》】

(葡萄牙)里卡多·雷斯“勇王·激情”

费尔南多·佩索阿“旅行者·角色”的异名

(1888生—1935卒)

【红霞译】

                不要在你想象的空间塑造

                未来，美人，别向自己承诺

                明天。放弃希望，做你本人

                今天的样子。你只为自己而活。

                不要策划命运，因为你不是未来。

                你倾空杯子并把它

                重又斟满，天晓得你的财富

                不会跌入两者之间的深渊？

【注】位于葡萄牙布拉加“马裤”城东郊的山上仁慈耶稣圣殿(Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga)，是一座耗时六百多年才最终完成的宗教建筑群。它始建于14世纪，却直到19世纪初才真正竣工——漫长的建造周期，本身就是一部信仰的编年史。圣殿主要采用巴洛克“不规则形状”风格，却又融合了洛可可“碎贝壳”和新古典主义的元素，体现了欧洲创造圣山的古老传统：将信仰与自然融为一体，让朝圣者在攀登的过程中，一步步接近天堂。

仁慈耶稣建筑群的核心，是山西坡的十字架苦路。这条蜿蜒而上的石阶之路，前后设有14个站点，每个站点都对应着一座小教堂。小教堂里，描绘着耶稣受难的雕塑——鞭打、戴荆冠、背十字架、跌倒、被钉……每一尊雕塑都栩栩如生，痛苦的表情凝固在石头上，仿佛在无声地呼喊着什么。朝圣者们一级一级跪拜而上，在每个站点前祈祷、默想，用身体的痛苦换取灵魂的洁净。

除了小教堂，苦路沿途还散布着喷泉、寓言雕塑和整齐的花园。那些喷泉，水声潺潺，像在诉说生命的源泉；那些寓言雕塑，以古典的形象隐喻信仰的真谛；那些花园，绿意盎然，在石阶的冷硬中注入一丝温柔。

苦路的终点，是建于1784年—1811年间的仁慈耶稣教堂。它坐落在山顶，俯瞰整座布拉加“马裤”城。但真正让这座圣殿名扬天下的，是通往教堂的五感阶梯——一道由墙壁、石阶、喷泉、雕像和其它装饰元素组成的宏伟楼梯。每一级台阶，都对应着一种感官：视觉、听觉、嗅觉、味觉、触觉。朝圣者在攀登的过程中，不仅用脚步丈量信仰，更用五感体验神圣。这道阶梯，被视为最具代表性的巴洛克作品，是石头与灵魂的对话。

站在山顶的教堂前，回望来路，那蜿蜒的石阶在阳光下闪闪发光。我忽然明白：仁慈耶稣圣殿不只是一座建筑，而是一条通往天国的路径。那14个站点，是耶稣的苦路，也是每一个朝圣者的苦路。而五感阶梯，则是信仰在肉体上的印记。

2019年，山上仁慈耶稣教堂被联合国教科文组织列为《世界遗产名录》。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Porto, the 2nd Largest of Portugal(葡萄牙第二大城波尔图“海港”)

2024: Braga, the Religious Ctr of Portugal(葡萄牙宗教中心·布拉加城)

2024: Sé de Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙最古老的布拉加城大教堂)

2024: Guimaraes, the Birthplace of Portugal(葡萄牙诞生地·吉马良斯)

2015: Archaeological Site of Pompeii, Italy(意大利庞贝古城)

2015: Lemons in Capri, Italy(意大利卡普里岛的柠檬)

2012: Descriptive─Fables(想象文─童话故事)

Braga Viewed from Bom Jesus do Monte

(从山上仁慈耶稣眺望布拉加城)

View over the City of Braga from Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte or Good Jesus of the Mount Sanctuary

(山上仁慈耶稣圣殿保护区俯瞰布拉加城)

Stairway & Church of Bom Jesus do Monte, Baroque Stairway Climbing 116-m/381-ft

(山上仁慈耶稣阶梯和教堂·攀登116米/381英尺巴洛克式阶梯 06-14-2024)

Fa?ade in the Neo-Classical, 2 Sculptural Figures of the Prophets, Jeremiah and Isaiah, & 4 Evangelists

(新古典主义正面观·2个先知雕塑人物，哭泣的先知与大先知、4个福音传教士)

Main Entrance of the Church of Bom Jesus, Built in 1722

(仁慈耶稣教堂正门·建于1722年)

Main Altar in a Huge Representation of Calvary w/ Life-Size Figures

(规模巨型的加略山主祭坛·有真人大小的人物)

Baroque Pipe Organ (巴洛克管风琴)

Main Altarpiece Dedicated to the Crucifixion

(耶稣受难主祭坛画)

Court of Evangelists (传道者公寓)

Chapel of Stations of Cross (耶稣受难像礼拜堂)

Equestrian Statue of Saint Longinus, the Roman Soldier Pierced Jesus in His Side w/ His Lance on the Cross

(圣朗基努斯“圣百夫长”骑马雕像·罗马士兵曾用长矛刺穿被钉在十字架上的耶稣肋部)

Largo do Pelicano or Moisés Ground

(鹈鹕广场即摩西“拯救”花园·鹈鹕是基督教的象征，代表耶稣基督和人类的救赎)

Via Sacra (圣道 06-14-2024)

Pelican Fountain @ Moses Terrace (摩西露台·鹈鹕喷泉)

3 Theological Virtues of Faith, Hope, & Charity, Each w/ Its Fountain

(信仰、希望和慈善等三种神学美德并配有各自的喷泉)

Fountain of Pelican (鹈鹕喷泉)

Fountain of Cherubs (小天使喷泉)

Fountain of the Faith (信仰喷泉)

Fountain of the Hope (希望喷泉)

Confidence Statue @ Three Virtues Stairway

(三德阶梯上的《信任》雕像)

Presence of Several Fountains along the Stairways w/ the Idea of Purification of the Faithful

(楼梯沿途有几个喷泉，旨在净化信徒)

Fountain of the Five Holy Wounds (五道圣伤喷泉)

5 Fountains Representing 5 Virtues & 5 Senses w/ Smell, Hearing, Touch, Taste, & Sight

(5种标志代表5种美德和5种感官感觉：嗅、听、触、味和视觉)

Fountain of Hearing (听觉喷泉)

Fountain of Smell (嗅觉喷泉)

Fountain of Tasting (味觉喷泉)

Fountain of Touch (触觉喷泉)

Capela de S Pedro (磐石圣徒礼拜堂)

Wedding Bridemaids (婚礼伴娘)

Bride w/ Father (新娘与父亲)

Dandelions (蒲公英)

Bom Jesus Funicular (仁慈耶稣缆车站)

Gardens (花园)

Hotéis Bom Jesus (仁慈耶稣酒店)

Jupiter Fountain (众神之王喷泉)

In Guimar?es, there were seven chapels dedicated to the Stations of the Passion of Christ, and only five remain at present. These sequentially represent the steps of Jesus from his condemnation to death, through the crucifixion, death on the cross, and deposition in the tomb. These chapels were built in 1727 and 1728 by the Brotherhood of Nossa Senhora da Consola??o and Santos Passos. The set of chapels constituted a processional religious itinerary followed annually by believers at the time of Lazarus or Passion Sunday and the other Sundays of Lent.

• 1^st Step - Largo República do Brasil

  It represents when Jesus falls for the first time.

• 2^nd Step - Rua Alfredo Guimar?es

  It represents the meeting between Jesus and his mother.

• 3^rd Step - Rua de Santa Maria

  It represents when Jesus falls for the second time and Simon helps Jesus carry the cross.

• 4^th Step - Largo Martins Sarmento

  It represents Jesus being comforted by the women of Jerusalem.

• 5^th Step - Largo da Misericórdia

  It represents when Jesus is stripped of his clothes.

吉马良斯有七座教堂专门纪念耶稣受难的足迹，目前仅剩五座。这些教堂依次代表了耶稣从被判死刑到被钉十字架、死在十字架上、被埋葬在坟墓中的历程，由安慰和圣阶圣母教堂兄弟会于 1727年和1728年建造，为每年在受难日和大斋期等其它星期日的信徒们提供宗教游行路线。

• 第一阶梯——巴西“战争”共和国广场：代表耶稣第一次跌倒的情景

• 第二阶梯?——阿尔弗雷多·吉马良斯街：代表耶稣与母亲的会面

• 第三阶梯——圣母街：代表耶稣第二次跌倒，西蒙帮助耶稣背起十字架的情景

• 第四阶梯——马丁斯·萨尔门托广场：代表耶稣受到耶路撒冷妇女的安慰

• 第五阶梯——慈悲广场：代表耶稣被剥去衣服的情景

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Portugal(出游葡萄牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)