Guimaraes, the Birthplace of Portugal(葡萄牙诞生地·吉马良斯)

2024-06-14 National Cucumber Day

【I Am A Shepherd (Sou um guardador de rebanhos)】

Fernando Pessoa (1888-1935)

        I am a shepherd.

        The sheep are my thoughts

        And all my thoughts and sensations.

        I think with my eyes and ears,

        My feet and hands

        My nose and mouth.

        To think of a flower is to see it and smell it,

        And to eat a fruit is to know its meaning.

        And so, on a very hot day,

        Sad at enjoying it so much,

        I lie flat in the grass,

        I close my hot eyelids,

        I feel my body, lying down in reality,

        I recognize the truth, and I'm happy.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《我是牧羊人》】

(葡萄牙)费尔南多·佩索阿“旅行者·角色”

(1888生—1935卒)

【红霞译】

                我是牧羊人。

                羊群是我的思想

                而我的思想发自感官认知。

                我用眼睛耳朵思考

                还有手脚 

                鼻子嘴巴。

                思考花就得闻看，

                吃水果则要品味。

                因此酷日的天气，

                我喜极而泣。

                躺在草地上，

                闭上热昏的双眼，

                感觉置身现实，

                认识真理让我快活不已。

【注】吉马良斯“名望”被称为葡萄牙的摇篮——1128年，阿方索·恩里克斯“尊贵·领主”(Afonso Henriques)在此击败其母的军队，奠定了国家独立的基石；这位葡萄牙第一任国王据说便出生于此，古城不仅是国家的摇篮，更是国王的故乡。城堡始建于10世纪，后经多次扩建，花岗岩城墙依然守卫着千年的秘密；南部的修道院建筑群，回廊幽深，教堂肃穆，曾是修士祈祷与抄经之地。城堡与修道院，一武一文，一攻一守，共同构成吉马良斯的历史核心——从防御工事到宗教建筑，从贵族宅邸到平民住宅，每一块石头都在诉说时间的流逝。

漫步在老街上，最引人注目的是底层花岗岩、上层半木结构的独特建筑——花岗岩抵御潮湿虫蛀，木结构自由开窗挑出，增加居住空间。这种风格基于15至19世纪的传统工艺，随着葡萄牙的航海扩张，被带到巴西萨尔瓦多、安哥拉罗安达——葡萄牙的建筑语言随帝国传遍世界。街道上那些历经风雨的木质构件，正以一种沉默的方式，为现代人提供一份关于“殖民与传播”的实物注脚。它们不评判帝国曾经的轮廓，只是以自己承重的方式，将过去的振动转化为现在可被阅读的语法，让时间的深度从视觉的碎片中，被重新感知为一种可触摸的连续性。

我站在城堡的高处，俯瞰整座古城——红色屋顶、白色墙壁、花岗岩街道在阳光下闪闪发光。那句谚语“在吉马良斯出生，在葡萄牙长大”忽然变得具体可感：这座小城不仅是国家的摇篮，更是葡萄牙灵魂的原型——它以一种不加修饰的方式，将“起源”这一抽象概念，转化为一种可被定位、可被回访的坐标。而那些在巴西萨尔瓦多“救世主”、在安哥拉罗安达“浅滩之地”被复制的花岗岩与木结构，不过是这条根系在世界其他土壤中延伸出的分支，始终指向同一个原点。风从大西洋方向吹来，穿过城堡的垛口，在我面前打开一条回望的路径——让我即使多年后再一次站在某个陌生的港口，也能凭借这一次在高处确认的坐标，辨认出自己与那个起点之间，是否仍隔着一段尚未被踏足的距离。而当我转身离开时，那些花岗岩与木头将继续以它们的方式，在我的体内维持一座不需要被建造、却永远不会倒塌的城堡，让我在抵达任何一座被葡萄牙建筑语言标记过的城市时，都能在那道由传统工艺编织而成的秩序中，辨认出一种超越地图的归属感，并让每一次回望，都能重新校准自己与起点之间的距离。

2001年，吉马良斯被联合国教科文组织列为《世界遗产名录》。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Braga, the Religious Ctr of Portugal(葡萄牙布拉加·全国宗教中心)

2024: Sé de Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙布拉加·最古老的马裤城大教堂)

2024: Bom Jesus do Monte in Braga, Portugal(葡萄牙布拉加·山上好耶稣)

2015: Archaeological Site of Pompeii, Italy(意大利庞贝古城)

2015: Lemons in Capri, Italy(意大利卡普里·山羊岛的柠檬)

2012: Descriptive─Fables(想象文─童话故事)

Gardens & Fountain in Front of Santos Passos Holy Steps Church @ Fair Field 

(美丽旷野·圣帕索斯“阶梯”教堂前花园与喷泉)

Santos Passos Church Portuguese Baroque w/ Rococo Influences in 1767-1785

(圣帕索斯教堂·葡萄牙巴洛克“不规则形状”风格，深受1767-1785年洛可可“花哨”风格影响)

Convento de Santo António dos Capuchos w/ the Cloisters &  the High Choir

(圣安东尼·卡普齐纳修“无价·修士”修道院、回廊及后殿)

Statue of Afonso Henriques the 1^st King of Portugal in the Old City Center

(老城中心葡萄牙第一任国王的雕像《阿方索·恩里克斯》)

Palace of the Dukes of Braganza w/ the Main Entrance & Ramp Showing the 2 Floors & Entrance

(布拉干萨“马裤”公爵宫·两层楼的主入口和坡道)

Front Fa?ade of the Palace w/ Its Main Gate of Palace of the Dukes of Braganza

(布拉干萨公爵宫·宫殿正门)

Courtyard @ Palace of the Dukes of Braganza

(布拉干萨公爵宫·庭院)

Guimar?es Castle Built in the 10^th Century to Defend the Monastery from Attacks by Moors & Norsemen

(吉马良斯城堡·建于10世纪，用于保护修道院免受摩尔“阿拉伯”人和北欧人的攻击)

Entrance to Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church Renowned for Its Distinctive Baroque Style w/ Rococo Influences Evident in Certain Elements Built in 1704

(卡梅尔“神园”山圣母教堂大门·建于1704年，以其独特的巴洛克风格而闻名，某些建筑元素明显受到洛可可风格的影响)

Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church w/ a Stone Arch Enriched by 2 Side Altars

(卡梅尔山圣母教堂·设有石拱门，两侧有祭坛)

Our Lady of Mt. Carmel then & Santa Estefania Home now

(卡梅尔山圣母教堂·现为王冠圣人之家)

Santa Estefania Home, a Religious Institution as a Children's Home

(圣埃斯特法尼亚“王冠”之家·实为宗教机构兼儿童之家)

Entrance to the Lar de Santa Estefania, Former Convento do Carmo

(圣埃斯特法尼亚之家入口·前卡莫“神园”女修道院)

Our Lady Azulejos Tile Panel @ Chapel of the Virgin Mary

(圣母礼拜堂·葡式瓷砖面饰)

Jardim do Carmo (卡莫庭院)

City Council, Former Antigo Convento de Santa Clara Monastery Blending Between Manueline and Renaissance Styles Found in 1560

(市议会·建于1560年，原为光明圣徒修道院古时女修道院，融合曼努埃尔“葡萄牙后期哥特式”风格和文艺复兴风格)

Rua de Santa Maria (圣母街)

Arch over Calle Santa María (圣母街拱门)

Medieval Bldgs on the Baroque Street toward Santiago Square

(通往后继圣徒广场巴洛克式街道的中世纪建筑)

Aparthotel Largo da Oliveira w/ a Ground Floor Granite & a Half-Timbered Structure

(橄榄树广场公寓酒店·底层为花岗岩、上层为半木结构)

Oliveira Square, Victory of Portugal Symbolized for the Battle of Río Salado

(橄榄树广场·标志葡萄牙胜利的纪念碑《盐河战役》06-14-2024)

Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira，a Collegiate Church

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·置有牧师会的教堂)

Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira Found in the 14^th Century

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·建于14世纪)

Bell Tower w/ Manueline Features @ Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·带有葡萄牙后期哥特式钟楼)

Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira in an Austere & Purely Gothic Style

(朴素、纯哥特式风格的橄榄树圣母大教堂)

Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira w/ the Cloister & the Portal the Chapter Hall, a Work of Excellent Constructive Technique

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·回廊及进入主教座堂全体教士厅的大门，建筑工艺精湛 06-14-2024)

Testimony to Portugal's Finest Romanesque-Mudéjar Ensemble @ Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·葡萄牙最好的罗马式穆德哈尔“屈服”的建筑见证)

Pipe Organ @ Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·管风琴)

Romanesque Chancel w/ Side Chapels Adorned in Colorful Motifs @ Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·罗马式圣坛，配以多彩图案装饰的小礼拜堂)

Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira w/ Altarpiece of the High Altar Dating from the 2^nd Half of the 18^th Century

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·主祭坛画可追溯至18世纪下半叶)

Portable Pedal Organ by Estey Organ Co @ Cathedral of Our Lady Oliveira

(橄榄树圣母大教堂·东居留地风琴公司生产的便携式踏板风琴)

Torre dos Almadas, the Surviving Section of a Very Large House Built Most Probably in the 16^th Century on the Left

(阿尔马达“矿井”塔·最左边一栋很可能建于16世纪的大房子幸存部分)

Rua Rainha Dona Maria II

(赖尼亚·多纳·玛丽亚“女王·贵妇·挚爱”二世大街)

Chapel of St Michael the Angel & St Crispim w/ the Current Facade Dating from 1852 Containing Archaic Features, Still of Rococo

(神似天使长教堂和卷毛圣徒教堂·目前的正面可追溯至1852年，包含古老的特征，仍为洛可可风格)

Chapel of St Michael the Angel & St Crispim w/ Two 19^th-Century Angle Altarpieces  & the Chancel w/ Wooden Roof in an Open Skylight

(神似天使长教堂和卷毛圣徒教堂·配有两件19世纪天使祭坛画，以及带有开放式天窗的木制屋顶圣坛)

Misericórdia Church w/ Plain Walls Embellished by Gilded Carde Features around Religious Icons

(慈悲教堂·墙壁朴素，装饰有镀金卡片，周围环绕着宗教圣像)

Fa?ade of Misericórdia Church (慈悲教堂·正面观)

Misericórdia Church, Main Altarpiece & the 18^th Century Pulpits w/ a Single, a Barrel-Vaulted Nave, & Rectangular Chancel

(慈悲教堂·主祭坛和18世纪的讲坛配有单层、桶形拱顶中殿和矩形圣坛)

Iberian Organ @ Misericórdia Church

(慈悲教堂·伊比利亚“西班牙/葡萄牙半岛”风琴)

Chapel of the Steps of the Passion of Christ @ Misericórdia Square

(慈悲广场·基督受难圣步礼拜堂)

Chapel of the Steps of the Passion of Christ w/ Jesus Stripped of His Clothes

(基督受难圣步礼拜堂·耶稣被脱去衣服)

Misericórdia Church w/ Plain Walls Embellished in Gilded Carde Features around Religious Icons

(慈悲教堂·墙壁朴素，装饰有镀金卡片，周围环绕着宗教圣像)

Casa Mota-Prego Built in 1500s

(建于16世纪的莫塔—普雷戈“土堆·钉子”之家)

Misericórdia Square Starting a Maze of Alleys Leading to Picturesque Squares Surrounded by Bldgs of the 14^th Century

(慈悲广场·迷宫般的小巷通向风景如画的广场，周围环绕着14世纪的建筑)

Monument to Joao Franco, Politician $ Prime Minister of Portugal in 1906

(《若昂·弗朗哥“神慈·自由人”》纪念碑——1906年任葡萄牙总理的政治家)

Entrance to Palace Santiago or Museum Alberto Sampaio

(旧时圣地亚哥“后继者”皇宫·现为阿尔贝托·桑帕约“光明·双圣”博物馆)

Ristorante nella Media (普通餐厅)

Medieval Palace @ Rua Dr. António Mota Prego

(以著名政治家和律师安东尼·莫塔·普雷戈命名的街道·中世纪宫殿)

Pra?a De S?o Tiago or Saint James Square

(圣詹姆斯“后继者”广场)

Museu Arqueológico Martins Sarmento

(战神·射击考古博物馆)

Postsigns (路标)

 Ceramic Woman and a Girl Meticulously Molded from Premium Clay & Crafted Using Traditional Glazing Methods

(陶彩《母女》·采用优质粘土精心模制而成)

Traditional Bakery (传统糕点)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Portugal(出游葡萄牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)