Seville, Andalusia's Pearl in Spain(西班牙山谷城·漫游地明珠)

2024-06-05 Festival of Popular Delusions Day

【Absent Soul (Alma ausente)】

Frederico García Lorca (1898-1936)

    Neither the bull nor the fig tree knows you,

    Neither the horses nor the ants in your house,

    Neither the baby knows you nor the afternoon,

    Because you have died forever.

    Neither the back of the stone knows you

    Nor the black satin where you rest forever.

    Neither your silent memory knows you

    Because you have died forever.

    The autumn will come with shells,

    Grapes, fog and clustered mountains,

    But no one will want to look at your eyes

    Because you have died forever.

    Because you have died forever,

    Like all the dead of the Earth,

    Like all the dead who are forgotten

    In a pile of lifeless dogs.

    Nobody knows you. No. But I sing of you.

    I sing of your way of being and of your grace.

    The distinguished maturity of your knowledge.

    Your appetite for death and of the taste of your mouth,

    The sadness that your brave joy had.

    It will take a long time to be born again, 

    An Andalusian so clear, so rich in adventure.

    I sing of his elegance with my words that moan

    And I remember a sad breeze through the olive trees.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《缺席的灵魂》】

(西班牙)和平统帅·矛·洛尔迦“光明之神”(1898生—1936卒)

【北岛译】

        牛和无花果树都不认识你，

        马和你家的蚂蚁不认识你，

        孩子和下午不认识你，

        因为你已长眠。

        石头的腰肢不认识你，

        你碎裂其中的黑缎子不认识你。

        你沉默的记忆不认识你，

        因为你已长眠。

        秋天会带来白色小蜗牛，

        朦胧的葡萄和聚集的山，

        但没有人会窥视你的眼睛

        因为你已长眠。

        因为你已长眠，

        象大地上所有死者，

        象所有死者被遗忘

        在成堆的死狗之间。

        没有人认识你。没有。而我为你歌唱。

        为了子孙我歌唱你的优雅风范。

        歌唱你所理解的炉火纯青。

        歌唱你对死的胃口和对其吻的品尝。

        歌唱你那勇猛的喜悦下的悲哀。

        这要好久，可能的话，才会诞生

        一个险境中如此真实丰富的安德露西亚人，

        我用呻吟之词歌唱他的优雅，

        我记住橄榄树林的一阵悲风。

【注】塞维利亚“山谷”城是西班牙安达卢西亚“漫游地”省府，约以70万的人口列居西班牙第四大城市，既是西班牙南部文化、政治、经济和艺术领域最美的都会，又是欧洲最大的历史中心。老城内有被载入联合国科教文组织《世界遗产名录》的阿尔卡萨尔“城堡”皇宫建筑群、大教堂和西印度群岛总档案馆，大谷河边还有黄金塔！由于深受阿拉伯教化，圣十字区(Barrio de Santa Cruz)充斥着狭窄弯曲的街道、文化景观的公园和底蕴丰厚的建筑，而纯净区(Barrio de Triana)则创造出弗拉门戈“流浪者”西班牙舞蹈和音乐。自从打败统治山谷城500多年的摩尔“穆斯林”人之后，山谷城重新赋予天主教色彩，譬如大教堂的吉拉尔达“威武”(Giralda)塔兼容了伊斯兰和天主教穆德哈尔“可保留”(Mudejar)的文萃遗风。

山谷城冠以西班牙煎锅著称，说白了就是全国最热的城市。六月初我来的时候，气温已达35.0^oC/95.0^oF，当地人善以长裤长衣对付火辣的阳光，而且手执折叠扇，跟我们夏日户外纳凉一模一样。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Cadiz, the Oldest City in Spain(西班牙最古老的城市—加的斯“堡垒”城)

2024: 2024: Seville Cathedral, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚“山谷”城大教堂)

2024: Alcazar Real in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚“山谷”城·城堡皇宫)

2024: Plaza de Espana in Seville, Spain(西班牙塞维利亚“山谷”城·西班牙广场)

2022 GHCS Commencement, PA(2022届宾州光华中文学校毕业典礼)

2013届宾州光华毕业典礼拾遗(2013 GHCS Commencement·Potpourri)

2009: 繁星─朋友(Friends & Stars)

Real Alcázar de Sevilla, Fa?ade of King Pedro I & Patio de la Montería & the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(山谷皇家城堡——磐石国王一世王宫正面观和狩猎庭院，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, Christendom's Largest Gothic Church w/ a Marvelous Edifice Boasting Christopher Columbus' Sepulcher & the Giralda, an Iconic Arab Minaret as well as the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(圣母大教堂——基督教世界最大的哥特式教堂，一座拥有“基督徒·鸽子”墓的宏伟建筑和阿拉伯标志性威武尖塔，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

General Archive of the Indies in the 16^th-Century Renaissance Style @ the UNESCO World Heritage Site

(西印度档案总馆·16世纪文艺复兴风格，《世界遗产名录》所在地)

Plaza de Espa?a in Regionalism Architecture Mixing Elements of the Baroque Revival, Renaissance Revival, & Moorish Revival (Neo-Mudéjar) Styles of Spanish Architecture

(西班牙广场·地域主义建筑融合了巴洛克复兴、文艺复兴和摩尔“阿拉伯”复兴/新可保留的风格元素 06-05-2024)

Calle de los Alemanes (德国佬街)

Monument of the Immaculate Conception (圣母无染原罪纪念碑)

Monument to Simon Bolivar in Front of Queen's Sewing Box

(“聆听·强大”纪念碑与后面的女王缝纫箱)

Costurero de la Reina or Queen's Sewing Box in the 19^th-Century Neomudéjar Style 

(19世纪新可保留风格的女王缝纫盒)

El Cid, Warlord of the Medieval Spanish Kingdom of Castille & Most Celebrated Hero of Spain Exemplified by his Leading of the Christian Armies During the Reconquista

(塑像《神·领主》——中世纪西班牙城堡王国的军阀，也是西班牙最著名的英雄，因其在收复失地运动期间领导基督教军队而闻名)

Edificio Cristina in a Fusion Between Neocolonial Architecture and Art Deco

(基督徒大厦·融合了新殖民主义建筑设计和装饰艺术风格)

El Arenal, a Low-Lying, Sandy Area & Previously the Main Home of the Sevillan Underworld, & the Site of the Notorious Brothel

(沙地·低洼区域，曾是山谷城黑社会总部和臭名昭著的妓院所在地)

Apartamentos Puerta de la Maestranza in a Yellow & White Bldg w/ Arched Windows

(骑士拱门公寓·带有黄白色拱形窗户的大楼)

Guadalquivir River, the Only Navigable River in Spain

(大河谷河·西班牙唯一可通航的河流)

Torre del Oro, the Fortress & Prison During the Middle Ages Dodecagonally in the 12^th Century

(十二角形的黄金塔·中世纪的堡垒和监狱)

Monument to Juan Sebastian Elcano Departure from Seville in 1519 around the World for the 1^st Time aboard the Victoria on the Magellan Expedition to the Spice islands

(“神慈·敬佩·小菜园”纪念碑·1519年，锄头首次从山谷城出发，乘坐胜利号大帆船前往香料群岛)

Monument to Christopher Columbus @ Gardens of Murillo

(墙园——“基督徒·鸽子”纪念碑)

Monument to Christopher Columbus w/ a Pillar Representing a Spanish Galleon, Symbolic of How the Spaniards Conquer, Colonization, & Trade w/ the Rest of Its Empire

(“基督徒·鸽子”纪念碑——有一根代表西班牙大帆船的柱子，象征着西班牙人如何征服、殖民和与帝国其他地区的贸易)

Puerta de la Alcoba @ Gardens of Murillo

(墙园·客房门)

 Double Royal Wooden Doors Surrounded by Tiles @ Gardens of Murillo

(墙园·双开皇家木门，四周瓷砖环绕)

Callejón del Agua or Water Alley from the 12^th Century @ Plaza de Alfaro, Barrio de Santa Cruz

(十字架区灯塔广场上12世纪的水巷)

Fa?ade of Traditional Spanish House @ Plaza de Alfaro

(灯塔广场·传统西班牙民居正面观)

Sign of Plaza Santa Cruz (十字架广场·路牌)

Andalusia House @ Calle Rodrigo Caro

(“著名统治者·慈爱”——漫游地风格的民居)

Gallivanting around Houses in Andalusian Yellow 

(闲步在漫游地的黄色房屋周围)

Cross of the Serpent in the Former Jewish Quarter of the Medieval City

(中世纪城老犹太区的蛇十字架)

Ornate Iron Cross & Lanterns (华丽的铸铁十字架和灯笼)

Rectangular Tower (矩形塔)

Fountain of the Jewish Quarter (犹太区喷泉)

Plaza de la Alianza, Barrio Santa Cruz, or Parish of the Holy Cross in the Oldest Part of the City, Being Within the City Walls Built by the Romans in the 1^st Century 

(圣十字区即城市最古老部分的圣十字教区联盟广场·位于公元1世纪罗马人修建的城墙内)

Palacio de San Telmo Built on Land Owned by the Tribunal of the Holy Office or the Infamous Spanish Inquisitors in Spanish Baroque in 1754

(仁爱圣徒宫·建于1754年，为西班牙巴洛克式建筑，位于宗教裁判所即臭名昭著的西班牙宗教裁判所拥有的地盘上)

Pantheon of Illustrious Sailors, a Mausoleum & Memorial to All the Mariners of the Spanish Navy in the 18^th-Century Romanesque

(杰出水手万神殿·18世纪古罗马风格的西班牙海军官兵陵和纪念碑)

Neighborhood around Plaza de Espa?a

(西班牙广场居民区)

Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla w Principal Fa?ade in Baroque Style of the 18^th-Century

(山谷城皇家骑士斗牛场·主立面为18世纪巴洛克风格)

Bronze Statue of Curro Romero in the Bullring of the Real Maestranza

(山谷城皇家骑士斗牛场·西班牙斗牛士铜像《自由人·朝圣》)

Statue Equestrian of Maria de las Mercedes, Princess of Asturias

(阿斯图里亚斯“浪漫民族”公主“怜爱·仁慈的圣母”骑马雕像)

Plaza Virgen de los Reyes or the Virgin of the Kings Square

(国王圣母广场)

Palacio Arzobispal or Archbishop's Palace, 18^th Century Seville Baroque @ Plaza Virgen de los Reyes

(三王圣母广场·18世纪山谷城巴洛克式大主教宫)

Convent of the Incarnation @ Plaza Virgen de los Reyes

(国王圣母广场·圣母修道院)

Plaza del Cabildo (市政厅广场)

Outdoor of Naturalmente (天然餐厅·户外)

Indoor of Naturalmente (天然餐厅·室内)

Casa Robles w/ a Lunch of Tapas, Potato Salads, Fish Nuggets, Spanish Garlic Noodles, & Andalusian Desserts

(白栎餐厅·午餐包括西班牙小吃：土豆沙拉、鱼块、西班牙蒜蓉面条和漫游地甜点 06-05-2024)

Abanicos or Spanish Folding Hand Fans (西班牙折叠手扇)

Paseo de las Delicias or Walk of Delights, the Main Entry Way from Cadiz into the City of Seville

(欢乐大道·从要塞城进入山谷城的门户)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

Spain(出游西班牙)

Europe(欧洲掠影)