3-Michelin-Starred Per Se, NYC(纽约城·米其林三星“本身”)

2024-04-06 Jump Over Things Day

【The Poems of Our Climate - I (1942)】

Wallace Stevens (1879—1955)

            Clear water in a brilliant bowl,

            Pink and white carnations. The light

            In the room more like a snowy air,

            Reflecting snow. A newly-fallen snow

            At the end of winter when afternoons return.

            Pink and white carnations – one desires

            So much more than that. The day itself

            Is simplified: a bowl of white,

            Cold, a cold porcelain, low and round,

            With nothing more than the carnations there.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《我们的气象组诗·之一》(1942)】

异乡人·史蒂文斯(1879生—1955卒)

【红霞译】

                     绚丽的碗中盛着清水，

                     粉妆白晰的康乃馨。光线

                     在房间里近似雪花般的空气，

                     反射着雪。刚下的新雪

                     重又出现在冬末的下午。

                     粉妆白晰的康乃馨——人的欲望

                     远不止于此。时日本身

                     无外乎：一碗白色、

                     清凉、冷脆、扁圆、

                     除了康乃馨别无其它。

【注】继米其林“神赐”三星法国洗衣店(French Laundry)之后，主厨“双·酒窖主”(Thomas Keller)又开设的另一家米其林三星法式餐厅——“本身”，该主厨由此而成为唯一一位因其两家餐厅获得米其林三颗星(最高评价)的美国厨师。

餐厅印象：由著名餐厅设计师“大地·沉默者”(Adam D. Tihany)策画，环境简约低调，深藏于德意志银行购物中心四楼，温馨宁静并可欣赏中央公园和鸽子环岛(Columbus Circle)的景色。

特色招牌：九道品尝晚餐菜谱(#1头台为免费赠送)

1. “短号”生三文鱼：甜红洋葱法式新鲜酸奶油与面包黄油配“快乐·围栏”畜牧场奶油

2. 珍珠牡蛎：蛋黄酱西米露配岛溪生蚝与皇家鱼子酱

3. 夏威夷棕榈芯“意式奶油布丁”：干姜丝、浓缩青葡萄、豆腐、香芹菜与小薄荷沙拉

4. 夏威夷黄鳍金枪鱼“肉块”：名望海滨熏猪肉、法式豌豆与生菜

5. 挪威海螯虾：铜叶茴香、红肉脐橙和意大利松子

6. 高汤：玉米粉酥皮野狼牧场鹌鹑“肉卷”、蚕豆、炖苦菜和芥菜苗

7. 炭烤宫崎和牛：新茬土豆、烤小洋葱、大葱“奶油蘑菇小牛肉”、“红酱”和杂烩汁

8. 战神农场“小羊胸肉饼”: “小羊胸肉”、糖浆朝鲜蓟、野韭菜香蒜酱和焦野柠檬“糖醋酱”

9. 奶酪泡芙：陈年“贵族”与黑冬松露

10. 约克郡风味馅饼菜：天使蛋糕、姜糖和希腊酸奶“意式奶酪”；焦蜜冰淇淋：五英亩农场牛奶和澳新军团酥皮水果甜点；上帝显现：黄油饼干、腌煮小葡萄干和奶油味茶点

11. 精致巧克力

餐厅体验：采用经典法式烹饪，每日提供九道品尝菜单，整个用餐过程中不重复使用任何食材。非凡的美食，值得专程体验(Exceptional Cuisine, Worth a Special Journey)。

消费价格：$1,085/2人(晚餐包括酒水小费)

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2024: Columbus Circle, NYC(纽约城·鸽子环岛)

2024: Ornamental Arts in Central Park, NYC(纽约城·中央公园大众艺术)

2024: Trump Tower of Belle Epoque, NYC(纽约城·今非昔比的川普大厦)

2024: Herald Square, Newspaper Row in NYC(纽约城报社街区·先驱广场)

2024: New York Public Library Main Branch-II(纽约公共图书馆主分馆·内藏)

2024: New York Public Library Main Branch-I(纽约公共图书馆主分馆·外观)

2016: Third Marking Period of Seventh Grade(初二第三学制)

2013: Santa Cruz Island, Ecuador(厄瓜多尔十字架岛)

2012: 佛州迪斯尼世界神奇王国(Walt Disney Magic Kingdom, FL)

2011: 埃及尼罗河游轮(Cruising on the Nile, Egypt)

2011: 埃及宝石双神庙(Twin Temples of Abu Simbel, Egypt)

2011: 埃及爱岛神庙(Philae Temple—Isis, Osiris, and Horus, EGY)

Deutsche Bank Center/Time Warner Ctr @ 1 Columbus Circle

(鸽子环岛1号大厦·德意志银行中心/前时代华纳中心)

Per Se on 4^th Fl of Deutsche Bank Center @ 10 Columbus Circle

(德意志银行购物中心四楼·鸽子环岛10号“本身”法式餐厅)

Bronze Sculpture of Adam @ Columbus Circle-Time Warner Center

(鸽子环岛—时代华纳购物中心·铜雕《亚当“大地”》)

Main Dining Rm (主餐厅 04-06-2024)

"Cornets" Salmon Tartare: Sweet Red Onion Crème Fra?che & Bread & Butter w/ Hilary Haigh's Animal Farm Butter 

(“短号”生三文鱼：甜红洋葱法式新鲜酸奶油与面包黄油配“快乐·围栏”畜牧场奶油)

Oysters & Pearls: "Sabayon" of Pearl Tapioca w/ Island Creek Oysters & Regis Ova Caviaru, Sesame Leaf, and Petite Mint

(珍珠牡蛎：蛋黄酱西米露配岛溪生蚝与皇家鱼子酱)

Hawaiian Hearts of Peach Palm "Panna Cotta": Crispy Ginger, Compressed Green Grapes, Soft Tofu, Sesame Leaf, & Petite Mint

(夏威夷棕榈芯“意式奶油布丁”：干姜丝、浓缩青葡萄、豆腐、香芹菜与小薄荷沙拉)

Bread & Butter w/ Hilary Haigh's Animal Farm Butter

(面包黄油配“快乐·篱笆地”动物农场黄油)

Hawaiian AHI Tuna "Pave": Hobbs Shore's Bacon, "Petis Pois à la Fran?oise," & Gem Lettuces

(夏威夷黄鳍金枪鱼“肉块”：名望海滨熏猪肉、法式豌豆与生菜)

Norwegian Langoustine: Bronze Fennel, Cara Cara Oranges, & Italian Pine Nuts

(挪威海螯虾：铜叶茴香、红肉脐橙和意大利松子)

Charcoal-Grilled Miyazaki Wagyu: New Crop Potatoes, Roasted Spring Onions, Scallion "Emince," "Salsa Roja," & Chimichurri Jus

(炭烤宫崎和牛：新茬土豆、烤小洋葱、大葱“奶油蘑菇小牛肉”、“红酱”和杂烩汁)

Potlikker: Cornmeal-Crusted Wolfe Ranch Quail "Roulade," Fava Beans, Braised Bitter Greens, & Mustard Frills

(高汤：玉米粉酥皮野狼牧场鹌鹑“肉卷”、蚕豆、炖苦菜和芥菜苗)

Marcho Farms "Selle de Veau": "Ris de Veau," Glazed Artichokes, Ramp Pesto, & Burnt Meyer Lemon "Gastrique" 

(战神农场“小羊胸肉饼”: “小羊胸肉”、糖浆朝鲜蓟、野韭菜香蒜酱和焦野柠檬“糖醋酱”)

• Hemingway: Flor de Cana "4-Year Old," Chartreuse "Meilleur Ouvriers de France Sommeliers," Grapefruit, Absinthe (海明威“道路”鸡尾酒：甘蔗花“四年陈酿”、教酒“法国最佳侍酒师协会”、西柚、苦艾酒)

• Chamoyada: Cacao Nib Scented Patron Tequila, Mezcal Artesanal, Passion Fruit (自豪鸡尾酒：可可豆香顾客龙舌兰酒、手工龙舌兰酒、百香果)

Gougère w/ Aged "Comté" & Black Winter Truffles

(奶酪泡芙：陈年“贵族”与黑冬松露)

Yorkshire Forged Rhubarb: Angel Food Cake, Candied Giger, and Greek Yogurt "Panna Cotta"; Burnt Honey Ice Cream: Five Acre Farms Milk & Anzac Crumble; Tiffin: Shortbread Biscuits, Poached Sultanas, & Tea " Crémeux"

(约克郡风味馅饼菜：天使蛋糕、姜糖和希腊酸奶“意式奶酪”；焦蜜冰淇淋：五英亩农场牛奶和澳新军团酥皮水果甜点；上帝显现：黄油饼干、腌煮小葡萄干和奶油味茶点)

Mignardises (精致甜点：自制巧克力)

Columbus Circle Aerial-Viewed from Per Se

(从“本身”餐厅俯瞰鸽子环岛)

CitiBike on Broadway @ 59^th St back after Per Se's Dinner

(“本身”晚餐后从百老汇与59街交道口骑花旗银行共享单车回家 04-06-2024)

Menu on 06-Apr-2024 (二O二四年四月六号的菜单)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

1-Michelin-Starred Gramercy Tavern(纽约·米其林一星“多谢酒馆”)

One-Michelin-Starred Estela, NYC(纽约城·米其林一星“星辰”餐厅)

Junior(大学三年级'2023-24)

USA·New York(美国·纽约州)

USA(出游美国)