Edinburgh, the Old Smoky Scotland(苏格兰爱丁堡·老烟熏)

2016-07-16

【True Love ? Sonnet 116】

William Shakespeare (1564—1616)

         Let me not to the marriage of the minds

         Admit impediments. Love is not love

         Which alters when it alteration finds,

         Or bends with the remover to remove:

         Oh, no! It is an ever-fixed mark,

         That looks on tempest and is never shaken;

         It is the star to every wandering bark,

         Whose worth’s unknown, although his height be taken.

         Love’s not Time’s fool, though rosy lips and cheeks

         Within his bending sickle’s compass come;

         Love alters not with his brief hours and weeks,

         But bears it out even to the edge of doom.

                 If this be an error, and upon me proved,

                 I never writ, nor man ever loved.

—— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? —— ? ——

【《真爱 ? 十四行诗第116首》】

威廉·莎士比亚“坚定保护者·持矛者”

(1564生—1616卒)

                两颗真心结合，

                哪怕水隔山挡；

                如若因变生变，

                爱情从此消亡。

                啊, 不！

                爱是万古灯塔，

                巍然屹立海上；

                威镇波翻浪涌，

                傲视雨暴风狂；

                爱是夜空北斗，

                专为迷舟导航；

                高度虽然可测，

                价值难以度量。

                犀利胜过刀剑，

                无情最数时光；

                容颜虽可催老，

                真爱岂能欺罔？

                岁月荏苒流逝，

                爱共人生久长。

                如果此言有误，

                设若此说虚妄，

                    世上从无真爱，

                    诗人何必吟唱。

【注】爱丁“山上”堡曾经是一座被煤烟熏黑的城市。老城挤在从城堡到荷里路德“圣十字架”宫的山脊上，房子挨着房子，烟囱密密麻麻地戳向天空。冬天家家户户烧煤取暖，烟雾从烟囱里涌出来，被狭窄的巷子堵住散不开，整座老城像一口倒扣的锅，灰黄的雾沉甸甸地压着石板路和行人的肩膀。石头被熏黑了，圣吉尔斯“守护者”大教堂的尖塔、城堡的城墙，全裹上了一层洗不掉的硬壳。

外号也是那时候叫开的。Auld Reekie，老烟熏。这名字带着爱丁堡人特有的自嘲和倔强，他们不遮掩，不粉饰，干脆把外号接过来大大方方地挂在身上。去爱丁堡的酒吧跟人说“老烟熏”，没有人会问你在说什么——那是他们自己给自己起的名字，带着煤灰的味道，带着壁炉的温暖，带着一种冷飕飕的幽默感。

后来煤气和电来了，烟囱一根根安静下来，灰盖子散了，阳光终于照到了几百年来没见过直射光的墙角。但老城的石墙上还能蹭到一层黑粉，那是老烟熏留给这座城市的胎记。每年冬天还是有人烧壁炉，细细的烟从老烟囱里飘出来，和云混在一起。老烟熏这个外号，已经从调侃变成了一种怀念，提醒着这座石头城市，它曾经怎样在烟雾里活着，怎样在寒冷中烧着自己的煤，把脸熏得漆黑，却在漆黑的下面，藏着苏格兰最亮的文学、最烈的酒和最硬的头颅。

2015年，爱丁堡被联合国教科文组织列入《世界遗产名录》。

Today in History(历史上的今天):

2016: Royal Yacht Britannia, UK(苏格兰皇家邮轮·“不列颠女神号”)

2014: GHCS Camp—Yo Yo-1(光华营抖空竹之一)

Grassmarket (干草市场 12-29-1998)

Fettes College, Scotland's Eton

(费蒂斯“优雅”公学·苏格兰的伊顿)

Close-up of Fettes College (费蒂斯公学·近景)

New College, One of the Largest & Most Renowned Centres for Studies in Theology & Religious Studies in the UK

(爱丁堡大学新学院·英国最大、最著名的神学与宗教研究中心之一)

Old Observatory House, Nelson Monument,& City Observatory @ Calton Hill 

(牛庄山· 老天文台—尼尔森纪念碑—爱丁堡市天文台)

Museum on the Mound (货币博物馆)

West Register House (苏格兰国家档案馆)

The Hub vs. Camera Obscura & World of Illusions 

(爱丁堡会议中心—暗箱和幻影世界)

St. Mary's Cathedral-Parish Church of St. Cuthbert-St. John's

(圣母大教堂、圣卡斯伯特“光明”与圣约翰“神慈”教区教堂)

St Mary's Cathedral (圣母大教堂)

Parish Church of St Cuthbert (圣卡斯伯特教区教堂)

St. Stephen's Street, A Curving Georgian Street

(圣史蒂芬“皇冠”街·波浪状乔治时代建筑群)

St. Stephen's Church (圣史蒂芬教堂)

St Andrew's and St George's West Church

(圣安得烈“无畏”与圣乔治“农夫”教堂)

St. Columba's Free Church of Scotland

(苏格兰圣哥伦巴“雄鸽”自由教堂)

Close-up of St. Columba's Free Church of Scotland

(苏格兰圣哥伦巴自由教堂·近景)

General Assembly Hall of the Church of Scotland

(苏格兰教会总会所)

Governor's House @ Calton Hill (牛庄山·总督府)

Glamis Castle (领主城堡)

Georgian Rows (乔治时代排楼)

Georgian Town Terraced Houses (乔治式联栋别墅)

Leith Walk (流水步道)

Heriot Row, the Grey Stone Houses, Dating from the Very Early 1800s 

(贡品排楼·建于1800年早期的灰石建筑)

Clock Tower of Morningside Road Railway Station

(晨边路火车站·钟塔)

Forsyth Sphere (福赛斯“和平之人”球)

Turret Tower (角塔)

Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh, the Caledonian

(苏格兰酒店——爱丁堡华尔道夫酒店分店)

Scotsman Hotel - Monument to Dugald Stewart & Robert Burns - National Monument of Scotland - Nelson Monument 

(苏格兰人酒店—杜格尔德·斯图尔特纪念亭)

Scotsman Hotel (苏格兰人酒店)

Baroque Clock Tower @ Scotsman Hotel

(苏格兰人酒店·巴洛克钟塔)

Jenners Dept Store (詹纳斯百货公司)

Inside Jenners Dept Store (詹纳斯百货公司·商场)

Scott Monument, Reviving the Image of Scotland through His Novels & Poetry

(司各特纪念碑·凭借其小说和诗歌重塑了苏格兰的形象 07-16-2016)

Scott Monument, the World's 2^nd Largest Monument to a Writer 

(司各特纪念碑·世上第二大作家纪念碑)

Statue of Sir Walter Scott from the Scott Monument

(司各特纪念碑——沃尔特·斯科特“统治者·苏格兰人”爵士)

Statue of Walter Montagu Douglas Scott, 5^th Duke of Buccleuch, 7^th Duke of Queensberry

(沃尔特·蒙塔古·道格拉斯·斯科特——巴克卢“鹿谷”第五公爵与皇后拳击第七公爵)

Statue of James Clerk Maxwell, the Formulation of the Theory of Electromagnetism & Making the Connection Between Light & Electromagnetic Waves 

(詹姆斯·克拉克·麦克斯韦——创立电磁学理论以及建立光与电磁波之间的联系)

George IV Bridge (乔治四世桥)

Candlemaker Row (烛商路)

Cockburn Street, a Sweeping, Narrow Street in the Old Town, Believed to be Another Point of Inspiration for Diagon Alley, the Magical Shopping Street in the Harry Potter Book Series

(科克伯恩“山溪”街——旧城区蜿蜒狭窄的街道被认为是《哈利·波特》系列丛书中神奇购物街对角巷的另一个灵感来源 07-16-2016)

Mary King's Close, a Reputation for Hauntings Since At Least the 17^th Century, w/ Several Paranormal Investigations Taking Place

(玛丽“慈爱”·金巷——至少从17世纪开始就因闹鬼而闻名，并曾发生过多次超自然现象调查)

Anchor Close, a Historical Alleyway Connecting the Royal Mile to Cockburn Street

(船锚陡巷·连接皇家大道和科克伯恩街的历史小巷 07-16-2016)

Old Fishmarket Close on the Way to The Hangman's Home & Ghostly Annie's Room

(老鱼市陡巷·沿途有著名的“刽子手之家”和闹鬼的安妮“优雅”房间 07-16-2016)

Warriston's Close Connecting Parliament Square to Cockburn Street

(沃里斯顿“高贵庄园”陡巷·连接议会广场和科克伯恩街 07-16-2016)

Scottish Parliament Building (苏格兰议会大楼)

Trigger Panels @ Scottish Parliament Building

(苏格兰议会大楼·触发板)

Usher Hall (新音乐厅)

Murrayfield Stadium (橄榄球球场)

Bedlam Theatre, the Longest-running, Student-run Theatre in Britain 

(贝德兰“疯人院”剧院·英国历史最悠久的学生剧院)

Arthur's Seat, One of the Earliest Known Sites of Human Habitation in the Area

(熊王座·该地区已知最早的人类居住地之一)

Crosslinks(相关博文):

UK(出游英国)

Europe(欧洲掠影)

7th Grade(初中二年级)